Retinol 101: Your Guide, How to use, Alternatives & New Regulations

For decades, Retinol has been hailed as a gold-standard ingredient in skincare—praised for its ability to smooth fine lines, stimulate collagen, and improve overall skin texture. But not all retinoids are created equal, and understanding the differences between them is key to making informed decisions about your skin. In this guide, we’ll explore the origins of this potent Vitamin A derivative, its many forms, the science behind its benefits, and the potential side effects to be aware of.

We’ll also break down how to safely incorporate it into your routine, what to do if it’s not quite right for your skin, and what the upcoming changes in EU regulations could mean for your products. Whether you’re a seasoned user or a curious beginner, consider this your essential guide to navigating the world of retinol.

Where does Retinol come from and WHY are there so many names?

Vitamin A comes from two sources. One group, called retinoids, comes from animal sources and includes retinol. The other group, called carotenoids, comes from plants and includes beta-carotene. If you’ve ever been confused by vitamin A products, you’re not alone. The reason there are so many different names—retinol, retinoids, tretinoin, retinal—is because they all belong to the retinoid family, which is a group of vitamin A derivatives.

Here’s the key takeaway:

All retinols are retinoids, but not all retinoids are retinol.

Retinoids is the umbrella term that includes all forms of vitamin A used in skincare—some are prescription-strength, others are gentle enough for beginners. Your skin has to convert many of these forms into retinoic acid, which is the active form that actually delivers results.

Because everyone’s skin is different—sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dry—different forms and strengths exist to suit a wide range of needs.

Retinoid Family Overview

Retinol	The most common over-the-counter retinoid, Strength is Medium	For mild-moderate acne clearing, collagen production and anti-aging, skin texture concers
Retinyl Palmitate	The most gentle and stable form of Vit-A	For 1st time users /Dry skin & sensitive skin types
Adapalene (Differin)	A synthetic retinoid developed specifically for acne, it is for the most part prescription only	Acne-prone skin, it is less irritating than Tretinoin
Retinaldehyde Or Retinal	Stronger than Retinol	For more stubborn pigmentation, fine lines, and acne-prone skin
Tretinoin Or Retin-A	The most active form of Vit-A, Prescription only	for Severe acne, advanced ageing and pigmentation (can cause the most irritation if not used correctly)
Isotretinoin	Prescription Only (Accutane) An oral form of Vitamin-A for severe Acne this is extremely toxic in the body.	Severe Acne a very strong form of Vit-A and can be very toxic in the body

If you’re prescribed tretinoin (a prescription-strength retinoid), understand that it’s extremely potent. It can be incredibly effective, but also very sensitising. I don’t recommend starting this in the summer months, as it makes your skin highly sensitive to UV exposure. Without daily SPF, you risk developing post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH).

The Benefits of using Retinol For The Skin

It’s one of the most researched and proven skincare ingredients we have access to today. It works by encouraging skin cell turnover, boosting collagen production, and helping to unclog pores, which is why it’s often recommended for both ageing and acne-prone skin. It’s earned its reputation as a powerhouse for improving skin texture, tone, and overall glow. But with so many types, percentages, and price points on the market, not all retinols are created equal.

You’ve probably seen retinol products everywhere, from high street favourites like The Ordinary to high-end cosmeceutical brands like SkinCeuticals. Let’s take The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane, for example. It’s around £9 for 30ml, compared to SkinCeuticals’ 1% Retinol Cream, which comes in at £85 for the same size. Both claim to offer “1% pure retinol,” so understandably, the price gap makes you think—why pay nearly ten times more?

But here’s the thing: formulation matters.

It’s not just about the percentage of retinol, it’s about how it’s delivered, how stable the formula is, and what supporting ingredients are included to enhance results and reduce irritation. The Ordinary’s version is a fantastic entry-level option for those starting their retinol journey, but it doesn’t compare to the precision, delivery system, and efficacy of something like SkinCeuticals, which is formulated with medical-grade standards in mind.

Using The Ordinary 1% for a few weeks doesn’t mean your skin is ready to jump straight to SkinCeuticals 1%. The latter is far more potent, and if introduced too quickly, it can cause an inflammatory response—think redness, peeling, irritation, and a compromised skin barrier. It’s not a nice experience and can put people off using retinol altogether.

If you’re transitioning from over-the-counter products to medical-grade or prescription skincare, it’s essential to do so under the guidance of a trained skin therapist.

Potential Side effects & Who Should Avoid It

There are many side effects however this does depend on the brand/potency/ and form of Vit-A your using. Most of these happen if not used correctly or you have started with a higher %.

(Especially during the first few weeks of use)

• Dryness – Often the first sign that your skin is adjusting

• Flaking or peeling – A result of increased cell turnover

• Redness or irritation – Especially if overused or combined with other actives

• Stinging or burning – Usually temporary, but a sign to slow down

• Purging – Temporary breakout as trapped congestion surfaces

• Increased sensitivity to the sun – UV exposure can lead to damage or pigmentation without proper SPF

• Tightness – Skin may feel dry or tight as it adjusts

• Inflammation – Especially if skin is already compromised or barrier is damaged

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) – Can occur in deeper skin tones if not paired with sun protection

How to Use Retinol Properly

With retinol now widely accessible (and heavily marketed), many people—especially younger adults—are using it without professional guidance. If you’re in your early 20s and using retinol for acne, there’s a good chance you’re also using blemish-targeted products like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or other exfoliating acids. Layering these actives can destroy your skin barrier, worsening inflammation and breakouts.

If this sounds like you, I strongly recommend seeing a professional skin therapist with experience treating acne. Dermatologists often prescribe antibiotics or topical treatments without addressing the root cause, so be curious, ask questions, and don’t be afraid to seek a second opinion.

To minimise irritation, follow the “low and slow” method:

• Week 1: Apply once a week at night

• Week 2: Apply twice a week

• Week 3: Apply three times a week

• Ongoing: Work up to every other night, if your skin can tolerate it

Personally, I’ve been using retinol for over 5 years and I still only apply it 3 nights a week—that’s what works best for my skin.

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Final Tips from a Skin Therapist:

• Use retinol only in the evening

• Never layer it with other actives (acids, acne treatments) on the same night

• Always wear SPF daily

• If your skin is dry or flaking, buffer your retinol by mixing it with your evening moisturiser

• Start slow—less is more when it comes to vitamin A!

New EU Retinol Regulations: What you need to know

The European Union has recently updated its regulations regarding retinol, and while the UK is no longer part of the EU, the impact of these changes will likely extend to the UK market as well. Starting from November 1, 2025, new products must limit retinol concentrations to a maximum of 0.3%. Existing products on the shelves will have until May 1, 2027, to comply. For body lotions, the maximum concentration is set at 0.05%, with the same deadlines for compliance.

One of the key changes is the requirement for labels to include the warning “Contains Vitamin A.” This is particularly important because many people may not realise that some of their moisturisers or serums contain retinol, leading to overuse. It’s been challenging for the industry to manage how much retinol consumers are using, which has resulted in increased skin irritation and, in severe cases, liver damage due to excess Vitamin A intake, especially when we also consume Vitamin A through our diet.

Personally, I believe this is a positive step forward for the industry, helping to regulate overuse, especially as the skincare market continues to boom and younger individuals are becoming more focused on their skincare routines. I also think there should be age restrictions on certain products like retinols and acids, but that’s a topic for another time.

Alternatives to Retinol; Vitamin A

Not everyone can tolerate retinoids or Vitamin A derivatives, especially those with sensitivities, allergies, or those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. High doses of retinoids can pose risks to a developing embryo, so it’s important to consult with a doctor or dermatologist before using any skincare products during pregnancy. With the new regulations for over-the-counter retinol products, it’s more crucial than ever to explore safer alternatives.

If you’re looking for a gentler, natural approach to skincare, there are several ingredients that can serve as effective alternatives to retinoids:

1. Bakuchiol:

Often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol is

derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. .

2. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3):

Niacinamide is a multi-tasking powerhouse that helps brighten the skin,

reduce inflammation, and improve elasticity. .

3. Peptides:

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that support the skin’s natural

structure and stimulate collagen production. .

These alternatives offer a gentler, more natural approach to achieving glowing, youthful skin without the irritation that sometimes comes with retinoids. Whether you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or simply looking for a milder option, these ingredients can help you maintain healthy, radiant skin.

My Fav Retinol Alternatives;

I really hope this has been helpful and somewhat educational for you! My purpose is not to make anyone feel wrong or more confused about the skincare market. I like to think these blogs offer honest and real advice from my perspective as a Skin Therapist with over 10 years in the industry. I draw from my own experiences and those of my clients. I don’t know it all, and I understand there’s a lot of conflicting information out there, but I hope this gives you a clearer understanding and helps guide your skincare journey.

Thanks for reading xx

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Disclaimer:

The content provided in this blog post is for informational and educational purposes only. All information shared is based on personal experiences and insights. The author does not claim to be a medical professional, and the content should not be construed as medical advice or a substitute for professional medical guidance. It is essential to consult with your doctor, therapist, or counselor before implementing any practices discussed in this blog post. The author holds no responsibility for any actions taken based on the information provided herein.

Thank you for your understanding.